5500-6000 Kelvin= Daylight (Always a temperature of color that a human eye is used to)
Green (sometimes blue) Screen allows you to be able to change the background of a studio setting shoot, thus allowing you to move a subject surrounded by a green or blue backdrop to an entirely different location of your choice.
Green pixels get eliminated in the backdrop of the image (Via Selection & Photoshop- color eyedropper deletion) As the green coloring is much more efficient than a black or white backdrop, no matter how well lit they are.
ONLY some of the green toned pixels are deleted, yet you can have control over this.
NO green coloring on your subject to resemble the green being used for the backdropping Green Screen. Subject/Model needs to be away from the material being used as the backdrop, rather than close enough to touch it.
The green screen must also be illuminated clearly/evenly as if it were any other sort of studio setting. (2 softboxes placed onto your back screen will really help)
Select the area you want to change in Photoshop, then press CTRL I, and the delete/remove it from that image layer.
True there is a worry that the software may delete more than one tone, yet Photoshop has made a very good feature which goes over the whole of the histogram spectrum.
3500 Kelvin= Studio lighting= Constant (modelling) Light & Flash Light (5500 Kelvin)
The modeling/constant light will show you where the lighting of your flash is most likely to fall on your subject as an incandescent bulb. IT is also central to the light source, a the flash rode is wrapped around it, as this makes sure that you have a constant light rather than just the fast-acting flash.
Colour Checker- A color pallet to check the brightness of the colors within your shot.
GreyScale- lets you get a mean exposure over an image subject on a whole.
Brightness range of a Histogram= 0-265
The intensity of a histogram will define the brightness and contrast of an image and hat it holds within it. Deepest black->Whitest white (histograms are the key to telling you if you’re over or underexposed. It also tells the midscale tones & exposure of an image.
Sometimes if a light meter is not possible or available, a pencil can be used sometimes.
Tungsten Lighting (continuous lighting) is different to a Flash (sudden burst of intense light). Yet each has their advantages and disadvantages of course.
Long Exposure & Mixed Lighting- this means that you can freely move the lighting around the subject in your frame and this would end up with the security that at least the majority, if not all the shadows will be diminished/removed.
This is also the process of how to create Light Paintings! (must try to do some)
Tethering a Camera in a Studio setting makes sure you see what you’re photographing, before ever photographing. So that you take precisely the outcome you are wanting/need.
Select > Color Range
Sample the green background
Shift button held down allows you to select more parts of the image
– After all, this Photoshop should have the area of color that you’re wanting to be selected (if not try to use Colour Range option in Select drop-down menu)
Select > Modify
Selection chosen can be more modified than with the Color Range process.
Camera RAW > Shift-click
Makes the RAW image a smart object in Photoshop